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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,
Ok we have all been here at some point, either you have done it ( with alot of swearing) or you want to change your back spark plugs, but realise the inlet manifold has too come off. I mean it can't be that difficult can it???

Allow a hole day for this, don't rush it take you time and you will find it quite easy (If you have thin arms)
[If you have big arms remove the metal plate at the back strut brace].

TOOLS NEEDED
Get yourself off ebay a 10mm and 13mm ratchet spanner.
8mm spanner and a 8mm long reach socket and small ratchet.
Philips screw driver for the air box lid.
Torque wrench which covers 5 to 50 Nm is handy also.

1) Get yourself a cup of tea you are going to need it.
2) Get your swear jar and some pound coins handy.
3) Disconnect the black brake assist vacume pipe (first push down the bottom collar, 2nd pull the pipe up.
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4) Undo the jubile clip on the big air in rubber hose ( not fully just lose)
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5) carefully pull out the front breather pipe ( fresh air IN to the front cam cover)
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6) carefully pull out the rear breather tube )fresh air IN to the rear cam cover) Opposite side to pipe above.
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7)Using plyers release the clip and pull off the Air pipe (air for the idel control valve)
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8)Only allowed 4 more pictures.Going to be mostly text.
9)The Fuel vapour pruge valve(you can just see it in the above picture, behind the vacume brake assist pipe) this is bolted to the manifold with either one ot two 8mm bolts. Undo them and this will release the Purge valve.
10) In the space inbetween where this clip was and where the metal pipe sticks out, look lower down Using a tourch, you will see a 8mm bolt on a metal bracket which supports the inlet manifold.
Undo and remove this 8mm bolt with 8mm long reach and small ratchet.
(Sorry I could not get a picture of this bolt and bracket, its way down in the dark).
11)Disconnect the electrical connecter to the Mass Flow air senser (its close to the Air box).
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12) Undo the three philips screws and carefully swing the air box cover up and out, It should come out with the big rubber air hose all in one bit.
13) Have a bit more of your tea , you deserve it.
13.5)Losen the 6 x 8mm bolts in the sequence shown below (just losen, leave fitted)
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14) Now the really tricky bit.(skinny arms are an advantage)
15) With the inlet manifold facing you, lay over the engine (neibours may think your humping the engine, but ignore them)
16) With you left arm FEEL behind the manifold (about 80mm in) you will feel a cable loom, a metal P clip and a 10mm nut holding it in place.Touch the 10mm nut with your finger.
17) With your right arm get the 10mm ratchet spanner and feed you arm along the back of the inlet manifold ( you arm goes in the space where the purge valve was, its tight)
18) With your finger on the 10mm nut guide the 10mm ratchet spanner onto it.
19) Totally undo the 10mm nut (it may have a washer too) pull the nut and washer out
without dropping it down the back of the engine.
20) Pull out you right arm without dropping the 10mm ratchet spanner.
21) With you left arm feel around the back of the manifold again and pull the metal P clip and wire loom off the 10mm stud. Now you should just feel the 10mm stud and another 13mm nut.
(You are getting very good at doing things by just feeling things, I could strip down this engine and rebuild it in the dark , he says).
22) With your left arm touch the 13mm nut with your finger, keep it there.
23) Get the 13mm ratchet spanner in your right hand and feed your right arm along behing the manifold.
24) With your left arm and finger on the 13mm nut, guide the 13mm ratchet spanner onto it. and undo the 13mm nut, (Just loosen it off, dont totally take it out)
24.5) You are in a really good position to give the engine a kiss, but dont let the neibours see.
25)Pull both your arms out, and have a rest.
26)Have a bit more of the tea.
26.5) Unclip the two electrical connecters on the IDLE control valve.
27) Totally undo the 6 x 8m bolts on the inlet manifold (The ones you losened in the sequence earlier) and remove these bolts.
28)BEFORE YOU LIFT THE MANIFOLD OFF, there is a small RED PLASTIC PIPE with black outer, which comes of the under side of the inlet manifold (two 90 deg metal pipes), it goes down to a 90 deg R/A rubber elbo and pushes onto the FUEL REGULATOR valve.
28.5) Carefully pull this small rubber elbo off the fuel regulator, to release this pipe.

29) Get your left elbo in a good lever position, leaning on a part of the engine and CAREFULLY lift the manifold up and lay it on a blanket onto your Battery box area (Try not to put too much strain on the throttle cables).
30) ALSO be carefull because there is a vacume line coming from under the inlet manifold (metal 90 deg elbo) this pipe goes to the Fuel vapour PURGE valve,
so dont pull this pipe too much, You will find the inlet manifold only moves so far to the right before you start pulling on this vacume hose.
31) Picture of that horrible 10mm stud and 13mm nut on the back of the inlet manifold
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32) picture of the Metal bracket, and cable loom with the metal P clip
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33)This is the Metal bracket that supports the right hand side of the manifold (RED ARROW)
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34) The GREEN arrows above is the Fuel vapour Purge valve and the metal bracket with two bolt holes in it, which hold the rubber clip and then the Purge valve.

The manifold is OFF well done.

Now stuff 6 lint free cloths into the 6 holes in the LOWER manifold (The manifold which has the 6 x injecters on it) So if you drop a bolt or anything it will not fall into the engine.
(you may say to your self "I dont need to do that" but that nut you drop falls down into the lower manifold hole, clanks past the valve and hides out of view on your piston) Time to strip the engine heads off. Or camera and magnet down the spark plug hole.
Its easier to fit the lint free rags.

Refitting is the reverse of all the above.
Re-torque the 6 x 8m bolts in the opposite order to the first picture (Go from 6 to 1)
Torque to 10Nm.

Sorry I ran out of pictures at the end, I really need to make a ST220 web site.
 
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