Sounds like the problem I had a while ago when I had a brand new turbo fitted.
It came with a dodgy actuator, displaying those symptoms.

The 'so-called' TDCI Specialist had the car for over a month, stripped the engine, checking pumps, had all the injectors out, even the exhaust! I looked at it for 5mins, saw the actuator clicking like crazy, googled it and confirmed it was that - less than 30mins.
He did not get paid for any of the work including a new injector and a new EGR as they weren't the cause!

Anyway, I was able to get a new actuator from the turbo supplier. And I have replaced that since using a Jaguar unti but it was a 2.2 engine. I will try and look at a 2.0 version and see what numbers etc are on it to compare.

I had also heard you can strip and refurb them yourself but wasn't going to try it. I saw some services where you sent it away and it was done then sent back and that was a few hundred pounds I think.

Shame you aren't more local mate, I may have been able to do a swap for you.

 

Cheers for the info mate, yeh my actuator was pretty worn it seemed when I was mapping it at MAS, clicking away like mental!! It went into limp mode a few times which is just a pain in the bum.
Yeh I don't trust myself to take it all apart but I bet it's easy!! How much was the Jag one and was you able to by just a seperate unit?

 

Unfortunately it was a cheeky swap with a mate who was getting rid of a part-ex vehicle. Turned out mine wasn't actually damaged, I was just illiminating possiblities for a different fault.

As it stands I haven't found anywhere you can get new ones as typical Ford only supply them attached to a turbo.
Other than getting it refurbed, there aren't many options. I would doubt there would be anything is a scrappers!

 

think there was a guy on ebay who "reconditions" them for around about the £100. Usually it is some connections inside where the solder melts so the connection breaks (or breaks intermittently)

It is supposed to be simple to fix though (assuming that is the problem) but don't use lead solder which is used originally as the heat from the turbo apparently can cause it to melt which gives the issue in the first place. Maybe try a unit from the scrappy and attempt the repair on yours (assuming it is the dodgy connections)

 

Yeh think I may visit my mates scrappy and see what he says! Cheers lads

 

Hmm he hasn't got any in but he said a transit breaker should have loads as its the same engine etc!

 

didn't think the transits were the same engine. They use different injectors I know that

 

I've been quoted £250 so far

 

250 for an actuator? you can get an engine for not much more!

Can you not just remove it and see if it is the connections? if so take it to an electrical shop that do repairs, should only cost a few quid to resolder

 

Yeh fair point, had a few offers now and they are all at the £250 mark with a years warranty.

 

quite a few here, don't know if they are all compatabile not read the descriptions

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/321007853180?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla

 

Right guys, after a Corky how to guide over the phone the night before I managed to finally sort my Actuator. In my case the actuator arm wasn't moving forward when it should of as it the turbo was a mil or two rotated away from the Arm. All I needed to do was reset the Actuator arm position and then make sure the turbo was in the right place.

There's probably a whole easier way of doing it, and I must let you know I've got

all mechanical knowledge!

A very quick guide to how I did it, without pics and I'm sure the mechanical dudes can pick it apart or add all to it.

Started by removing the small clip from the actuator arm (careful not to loose it!), then turning the power on from the ignition so the actuator arm could move freely. after i also took the whole actuator of and moved it out of the way. There's a few 10mm bolts to undo.
I took the heat shield off at this point at this point to give me some more room which were a mix of 10mm and 8mm.
With that out of the way I could get right down underneath the turbo to rotate it a mil or two, so the actuator arm isn't stuck. Two of the 8mm nuts are hard to get to with one being practically right at the bottom!!
I made sure it gave the arm free movement and then nipped everything up and put it all back together.
Low and behold it now pulls hard from 1600 rpm and all the way through to 4900rpm. It smokes alot less aswell and the exhaust note has changed. The power band used to be from about 2900-4900rpm so I've got all more usage from the Hybrid turbo.

I know I've missed a few bits out etc but it was about 2 weeks ago!! Any questions ask Me and then ill forward you to Corky!!